Moonset Sunrise

• July 17, 2019
• Miles: 5
• Skyline Alternate to Shelter Cove

In the grey silence just before dawn, I poke my head out of the tent in search of sunrise. The nearly-full moon is still shining, setting behind the trees as morning mist rises from the still waters. I watch the mountains as they brighten, briefly blush pink, before the mist-quelling warm bright of day is my signal to head out.

Trapper creek is a lush contrast to yesterday’s dust. The trees are thickly draped with lichen, glowing golden in the early sun. The rushing crystal waters are faintly tinted with aqua, gathering momentum on the gentle but insistent descent toward Odell Lake. Why am I still so surprised by the stark contrast from dusty, arid rain shadows to wet, shady exposures?

The alternate soon spits me out on the very train tracks I travelled to Crater Lake just a few days ago, the same tracks I crossed when I stopped short of my goals in 2016. But there’s no station anywhere near here, no public transit of any kind. The morning arrival at Shelter Cove is calculated to give me all day to find a ride back into the radius of reasonable distance within which the family is willing to come fetch me. I have plenty of time to get cleaned up, and eventually secure a ride out to the interstate for later in the day from some kind older campers. As I wait, I trade stories (and reading recommendations!) with a super rad group of thru-hikers, and suppress twinges of sadness at not being able to hike on.

I have such mixed feelings about this section framed by two past bail outs that could have been avoided with some deep breaths and a bit of perspective (or gasp, by taking a half day to rest and reconsider). But for my post-baby body, this section was exactly what I needed: a modest distance with mostly gentle tread, and the chance to address unfinished business connecting literal and metaphorical footpaths across Oregon and beyond.